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Sun loving Hostas – is there such a thing?

Any gardening fan will have a Hosta planted somewhere in his or her garden.  They are easy to care for and come in many shapes, sizes and colours.  They all grow well in the shade but can they thrive in a sunny spot?

Although shade tolerant, the Hosta will not thrive in deep shade.  Almost all Hostas love to have morning sun and afternoon shade.  Some Hostas will take some afternoon sun but if exposed too long they will suffer.  Especially variegated varieties, too much exposure will burn the tender margins during the hot summer months.

Fragrant Hostas benefit from at least 5-6 hours of sun; the morning sun helps stronger more fragrant blooms develop.  All blue Hostas such as ‘Halcyon’ do best in mostly shade conditions (2 to 4 hours).

Hostas that are yellow, gold and white leafed, do the best in sunny locations. Some examples are; ‘August Moon’,  ‘Fragrant Bouquet’, ‘Guacamole’, ‘Fried Green Tomatoes’ and ‘Sun and Substance’.

If you have a favourite Hosta that you would like to place in a sunny location, go ahead; just be prepared to give it lots of water.  If at the end of the year your experiment didn’t work the way you wanted it too just move it back into a shadier location.

Is your blue Hydrangea in the pink?

Did your beautiful blue Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Nikko Blue’ planted so lovingly last season bloom pink this year?

If the answer to that is yes, it’s the pH in your soil causing the problem.  Hydrangea flowers convert to pink if your soil pH is more to the basic side of the pH scale.  Basic soils lock up aluminum, which is the element that causes blue flowers, in the soil and prevents it being taken up by the plant.

To keep your Hydrangea flowering blue, add Aluminum Sulphate to the soil, directly around the base of the plant.  This acidifying product is carried by most garden centers and for best results should be applied every four weeks throughout the season.

Aluminum Sulphate is safe for pets and can be applied to other acid loving plants such as Rhododendron, Azalea, Holly, Blueberry and some Dogwoods.  Plant your Hydrangeas under evergreens such as Pine and Spruce, their needles are slightly acidic and years of build up in the soil creates the perfect place for your Blue flowering Hydrangea.

Be prepared to amend the soil for several years with the above products before seeing consistent blue flowers.

 

Leaves of Three? Let It Be!

I am often asked at our garden center what Poison Ivy looks like; Poison Ivy can take three different forms.  Most people think of it as a ground cover plant carpeting the ground, but it can also be shrub forming growing up to four feet tall, or a vine with stems larger than two inches thick with millions of hair like tendrils that help the plant cling to its support.

The leaves themselves are always just a little different, but the basic shape is the same.  Poison Ivy has a trifoliate leaf, that is, each leaf is made up of three leaflets.  One leaflet can be found at the very tip of the petiole.  The two opposite leaflets almost resemble mittens.  The leaflets are usually pointed and in most cases the leaf margin will have rounded lobes.

Poison Ivy has a toxic reaction on the skin of people who are sensitive to it, causing severe itching or even blistering of affected parts.  The offending substance is an oil called urushiol and it is present throughout the whole plant.  This oil will stick to clothing and shoes and can easily be transferred to the hands and face by touch.  Pets can also be contaminated by running through an affected area.  They do not react to the poison, but can easily spread the poison by being petted.

People vary greatly in sensitivity to ivy poisoning and many have never suffered any ill effects, although it should not be taken for granted that the immunity will last for all time.

If contact has occurred, wash the contaminated parts of the body immediately with soap and water repeatedly.  The sooner the oil is removed from the skin the less likely a reaction will develop or the severity of contamination will be greatly reduced.

Is your lawn dead?

Recently I have had lots of calls regarding brown lawns. The most common question is “Is my grass dead?”

If you have not been able to provide your lawn with any water then it is probably the colour of straw right now.  Don’t worry, your lawn is protecting itself by going dormant.

In Ontario Kentucky bluegrass is the most common grass species in most lawns.  Without water Kentucky bluegrass can go dormant for up to six weeks in most soils and up to four weeks in sandy soil before it dies.  When your turf is dormant avoid driving or walking on it, as doing so will crush the crown of the plant increasing the chance of death.

If you need to water, do so in the morning. This will help avoid water loss due to evaporation.  Bringing your turf out of  a dormant state will take a couple of weeks, but providing an inch of water per week (irrigation or natural) should do the trick.  I suggest setting tuna tins around the watering area and make sure you water until they are just about full. You should consider fertilizing your lawn after it comes out of dormancy. Rejuvenation of foliage takes a lot of energy out of the plant, leaving it weak and susceptible to disease, insects and weeds.

A regular well-balanced slow release fertilizer content is recommended.

 

Got Walnuts?

Is there a spot in your garden where plants just won’t grow?  Did your tasty tomatoes all of a sudden up and die?

I might know the reason!

The beautiful big Walnut tree in your back yard may be murdering your plants. That’s right, murder! The Walnut is a native plant with a nasty secret.

Actually, you could consider it self-defense, Walnuts don’t like competition, plants that grow up under and around them take away water, light, nutrients and space, so they take matters into their own hands and get rid of them. The roots of the Black and Butternut Walnut produce a toxic substance known as juglone. This substance is poisonous to most plants and when another plants roots system comes close to or touches the Walnuts roots it unleashes the deadly venom and the competing plant dies.  The toxic root zone from a mature tree can extend to a 50 to 60 foot radius from the trunk, on a large old tree it can be up to 80 feet. Young trees two to eight feet high can have a root diameter twice the height of the tree itself.

Walnuts have large seeds which fall directly under its broad canopy and apart from squirrels moving some of them around that’s where they’ll stay. The Walnut helps its young seedlings along by producing juglone knocking back other plants that might compete for water and block sunlight. Once the seedlings are off to a good start they too produce juglone and the cycle continues.

Luckily Juglone does not affect all plants and plants like native Grasses, Eastern Redbud and Forsythia are plant examples that can survive in the presence of the mighty Walnut.  It’s actually good for the Walnut to have some plants grow under them to help protect them against erosion, excess heat and water loss.

Although the roots are most toxic the bark, foliage and wood of the walnut also carry the compound with a lower concentration. What implications does this have? Mulching with Walnut wood, leaves and bark is not recommended unless it has been thoroughly decomposed first. The toxic effects of juglone will degrade in four to six weeks with exposure to air, water and bacteria.

As a side note, do not place any potted plants under the canopy of a walnut as any rain water that runs off the leaves to the ground will be mildly toxic. Maybe not enough to kill the plant, but enough to kill some leaves and small branches.

If you plant an English Walnut you may experience the same effects, but only in the ground. This is because most of the time the nurserymen graft onto Black Walnut rootstock for added hardiness. The leaves, bark and wood of the English Walnut are not toxic.

Japanese Beetles, are they eating your garden alive?

There has been a steady stream of customers bringing in leaf samples to our garden center for advice.  The leaves are skeletonized, leaf matter all gone leaving only the spines.  “What is causing it?”

The Japanese beetle is a serious plant threat in North America, the grubs feed on the roots of grass and the adults feed on the foliage of over 300 different plant species.  The insect thrives in hot summer weather; this summer in particular has been good for the beetle, but not so good for gardeners and farmers.

The beetle starts off as a grub. Health Canada says this is the most difficult lawn pest to deal with.  The grubs chew off grass roots, reducing the ability of grass to take up enough water to withstand the stress of hot, dry weather.  If you have a lot of them you are going to have large patches of dead grass.

It is easy to spot a Japanese Beetle because of their distinctive copper wing covers and metallic green head. They are generally 1 cm long and 7 mm wide. Sometimes when threatened they will raise their hind legs in the air to look like spines to ward off predators.

Apart from eating away the surface material of the leaf, Japanese beetle will also eat flower petals and buds, they seem to be especially fond of rose buds.

Because we cannot use insecticides our best defense is a pheromone trap.  The traps contain floral scents to attract the beetle.  The Japanese beetle is a terrible flyer and once they hit the trap wall they fall into a bag where they are trapped.  Demand this year for the traps has been high, so you may have problems finding a store that has any left.

Natural repellents include catnip, chives, garlic and tansy as well as the remains of dead beetles, but these methods have limited effectiveness.  Additionally, when present in small numbers, the beetles may be manually controlled using a soap-water spray mixture, shaking a plant in the morning hours and disposing of the fallen beetles, or simply picking them off attractions such as rose flowers, since the presence of beetles attracts more beetles to that plant.

Does your garden work the night shift?

I’m often asked which plants work best in a patio garden, outdoor dining space or hot tub.  Giving it some thought I realized that we often tend to enjoy these spaces from early evening to well into the night.  So why not use plants that are at their best at night?

You can divide these plants into two categories:

1)      Plants with blooms that actually open at night to avoid the sun scorch including, Evening Primrose, Night Phlox, Angel’s Trumpet, Four O’clock and a few varieties of Daylilies such as ‘Moon Frolic’.

2)      Flowers that release their scent at night including, Yucca, Flowering Tobacco, Oriental Lily and Fragrant Columbine.

Also If you’re looking for some night time vertical interest try these fragrant vines; Climbing Hydrangea, Honey Suckle and Sweet Autumn Clematis.

Some pollinating insects such as moths only work at night.  The night air tends to be calm allowing the scent to linger, which in turn lures the months to the flowers.  As an added benefit bats are attracted to the moths and other night flying insects, bats can consume up to 600 mosquitoes in one hour and that can only be a good thing when trying to enjoy your out-door space.

Wire Basket Trees…every garden should have one.

As part of our landscaping services we often have customers request large established trees to enhance their properties.

We all know that the most efficient way to produce large trees is to plant them in the ground and leave them to do their thing, but when grown how to move them without damaging the tree?

Specialized equipment has to be used to remove the tree from the ground.  The tree is then placed in a wire basket which is tightened around the roots and soil creating a compact root ball.  The tree is then ready to be transported all over the country with as little stress as possible.

Wire basket trees may at first seem expensive, but you have to consider that you are really buying time.  On average 5 to 7 years of growth.  The size of tree makes a huge difference to any landscape, although some may be heavy, wire basket trees are easy to move through small gates into backyards.   If planted in the spring the wire basket tree will have all season to establish root systems, enabling them to start putting on top growth next season.

Pond plants, which ones are best?

It’s pond season and customers are asking my advice on which aquatic plants to use and how much area should be covered.

There are three categories of aquatic plants to include in your pond, they are:  floating, oxygenating and accent plants.

Floating plants such as water hyacinth and water lettuce are both great choices. These plants fill- in quickly, provide food for fish and help fight algae.  One of my favourites is water hyacinth because it also produces a beautiful purple flower.

Oxygenating plants such as hornwort and elodea parrot feather all work really well.  These plants filter nitrates and more importantly provide oxygen for your fish.

Accent plants should fill the rest of your pond; lobelia, arrowhead, umbrella palm and water lilies to name a few.  These plants will add different heights, colours and textures to your pond.

As a rule of thumb aim to cover at least 65 to 70% of your pond surface with plant material. This will help fight algae by blocking the sun and removing excess nutrients, it also provides shelter for your fish, protecting them from the sun and predators.  As a bonus the plant material also protects your pond liner from the sun’s harmful UV rays which eventually breaks them down.

 

Landscape design…. What’s the point?

Many customers have asked me if they should consider having a landscape design produced for their property.

One of the things I always ask them to consider first is what their long term vision for the  property is.

Do you want your property to stand out from your neighbours with spectacular flower beds and manicured lawns?  Do you eventually want to introduce garden features such as walkways or gazebo’s?   Do you want your garden to be low maintenance?

Are you planning to sell the property?  In today’s real estate market, a professionally designed and installed garden is a huge selling feature.  Potential home buyers will love the fact they don’t have to start from scratch.

Landscape designers have years of experience and extensive plant knowledge.  They take all site conditions into consideration such as the direction of the sun and wind, soil type, plant sizing and drainage issues. Getting the job done right allows the plants to reach their full potential, and ensure the overall health of your garden.  Designers also know where to introduce popular features such as interlocking stone, retaining walls, ponds and water features

A landscape design will allow you to build your dream space in stages, making sure it will blend together as it develops.  This will also help avoid some of the problems even the most enthusiastic gardener’s fall victim to, such as incorrect spacing and unbalanced height or sun preference for plant material.

Buy a beautiful frame and put the design in it, in the long run your garden will develop into your own special oasis, and will be easier on your pocket book.